Tips & Tutorials

Techniques

Tool & Wood Care

Modeling

Drawing

Reference material

Repairing cracks & splits
in green wood

Green wood has recently fallen by mechanical means or storm damaged and has yet to thoroughly air dry and season.

The moisture content of green wood is considered to be 100% versus kiln dried wood at 6% to 15% and results in a harder board.

When you are unable to complete a piece prior to the green wood drying out, it may begin to split. The splitting can continue to do so for a period of time and could become frustrating to deal with.

Patching those splits is a relatively easy way to fill those gaps and return the wood to a solid piece.

Review these instructions for filling and repairing any splits in your pieces.

Select a piece of wood from the same project you're working on if possible. The "patch" shown here has been separated from a crosscut section not needed for the primary carving. By doing this, the patch will blend with the area being patched.

A flat chisel is used to slice a chip slightly thicker than the split needing to be filled.

In this photo it shows one patch inserted and lightly tapped into the outer split in the project.

With any of your patches, you may need some additional sanding to allow for a more perfect fit.

You may prefer to glue the patch at this point versus removing it then gluing prior to tapping it into place. Be sure it's a snug fit though.

Once you've inserted the patch and it's snug but not too snug, use your knife to score the wood extending past the outer edge of your project. Repeat the scoring until the outer portion separates from the primary patch.

This particular project had a split that didn't extend to the woods' outer edge. By making an angled cut that tapers to its corners the patch can be driven into the split. The outer edges are "forced" into the cavity until the split/gap disappears.

A flat chisel is used to slice a chip slightly thicker than the split needing to be filled. By sanding, one can control any minimal amount of wood that requires removal for a perfect fit.

Encountering a split in your project doesn't mean it's destined for the fireplace. If you encounter cracks and splitting that affects your project, give this method a try. We're sure you'll be satisfied.

The patching project is now complete. One needs to look closely to find any sign of a split.

Your project is awaiting a finish of your choice and you'll be able to call it complete.

Preparing a Patching Piece

Wood Care

Once you've completed your project or even with the kitchen and tableware, furniture or other decorative wooden pieces, they will need some upkeep and maybe a little dusting.

Maintaining Kitchen & Tableware

Kitchen and tableware require treatment that will avoid warping and splintering. Mineral oil, Howard's, Murphy's or a beeswax compound work well. Avoid vegetable oil and olive oil, these can go rancid.

Clean cutting boards and utensils with warm water and a mild dish soap. Pad the piece dry with a towel and let it air dry standing up or on a raised rack for air flow.

Do not put kitchen or tableware in the dishwasher. The heat and water will warp the piece.
Avoid soaking or sitting wood pieces in water. They will absorb too much water and possibly warp.
Do not allow wet pieces to dry flat on one side. This will warp and/or bow the piece.
Do not use bleach. It will stain the wood and dry it excessively.

HowarHowas Wood Care Products

Selecting a Finish

Selecting a finish for your piece can cause some apprehension when you may not like your initial application. Should it be a transparent finish to enhance the grain? Opaque? Will it be displayed inside or outside? It's pretty much up to you and/or your client.

There are a number of products available for maintaining the original finish for the first application or "brightening" a piece requiring just a little touch-up. Select paints, stains, oils, waxes, clear and permanent matte, satin, semi-gloss, or high-gloss results that work best for your project.

A color chart will offer a variety of options for selecting and creating a finish that works for your piece. Primary and secondary colors are fine but you may want to achieve other hues or shades (white or black) by combining colors. When selecting a chart, find one that breaks down percentages to mix to achieve the ones that work best for your project.

This is a Pantone Color Formula Guide. It is generally used in the printing industry but is an excellent resource for combining and percentages used to mix specific colors.

Color wheel charts are also a good resource for selecting and mixing color palettes.

Another convenient method for selecting a finish is while roughing out wood as you prepare your project, save a small sliver an inch or two wide and several inches long. This will allow you to create a test strip with a variety of finishes. It narrows down the final choice as well as using it for selecting finishes for future creations.

Above and to the right are stained "test strips" on pine and basswood/poplar. Each color is named and numbered corresponding with the separate stain.

When planning your piece, produce a strip using stains and/or dyes you're considering for your project. This method could save you time and less frustration if striping it back to the original wood.

A piece of laminated basswood, left over from a carving, has been used to create a water based dye "test strip".

This example shows percentages of primary colors mixed and marked next to particular colors in order to reproduce the selected hue.